The Expanse Cosplay: Naomi Nagata

My first cosplay! Science-fiction of course. After having enjoyed the series The Expanse, I wanted to sew myself a Holden flight suit. It looks so very comfortable and I somehow identify with him the most. I was thinking of the late season 1 flight suit, where they had added those graphic Beratnas Gas patches onto their Pur&Kleen suits.

After a few unsuccessful trips to fabric stores looking for a blue-grey cotton twill, I found one, alas there was only 1.8m left. Which I bought hoping I could somehow wing it…

First I re-watched most of season 1 to get the details right, which I neatly drafted as a line-drawing.

Pattern: as a starting point I traced an overall pattern I had used before, this one, and added all the flight suit details. I soon realized that I would not have enough fabric. Those long chest and front trouser pockets were the culprits. Also my blue-grey fabric had actually a purple tinge, like Naomi’s, and not a petrol shade like Holden’s. Incidentally Naomi’s pockets were a lot smaller and the overall outfit much snugger –> less fabric use. My hopes went up again. Back to the drawing board, and I drafted Naomi’s version.

[While endlessly squinting at screenshots I also tried puzzling out how the genial costume designer, Joanne Hansen, had created such a variety of similar, though individualized flight suits for the crew. My guess is an off the shelf suit which was then adapted, but that investigation may be for another blog entry]

For those who have no idea who I’m talking about, here are Naomi Nagata and James Holden from The Expanse in their original Pur&Kleen flightsuits.

Here they are with the added breast patches. They have a large patch on their backs as well. The difference in colour of the suits is clearer on this image.

Naomi’s suit is fitted with front and back princess seams to the shoulders, so my original pattern wouldn’t work. I tried drafting the seams myself, but didn’t manage. So I thought of sewist.com where I managed to re-create the overall pattern I needed.

I entered: Jumpsuits – Semi-fitted – Regular armholes – Tight neckline – Stand collar – No front closure – Jumpsuit with waist seam – Tapered pants – Full length – Princess front seam: shoulder to waist – Back princess seam: shoulder to waist – 2-seam sleeve, full length. I wasn’t able to place the zipper in front, but apart from that it’s very similar. It’s saved as Design #2206238 if anyone is interested.

Here’s the muslin made from Sewist Design #2206238 : Not bad, the bodice fits quite well, a bit too tight, but the collar is much too wide, as are the trousers, at least for Naomi, whose trousers are fitted. So I ended up using the Sewist pattern for the top, my Couture Mode n8 Overall for the collar, and traced my H&M mom jeans for the trousers.

All the parts just fitted, any free areas where quickly used up for the belt (pun not intended), arm flaps and details.

GO! Much of this was drawn and cut and sewn to the Ty & That Guy Podcast 🙂

The engineering patch was a mini-challenge by itself, which typeface should I use? What is the code under it? Online I could only find Amos patches, no Naomi. My version is not 100% accurate, but close enough.

For the engineering patch and the Beratnas patch I used a print paper for textile, then ironed them on a white fabric. For the Beratnas patch I added a layer of very sturdy interlining.

And after many a podcasts, the suit was done, a couple of days before the local Comic-Con!!!

Next, Naomi’s neck tattoo. I had looked online for her tattoo, but only found straight or round versions.Though lovely, they lack the correct curve to fit around my neck. The shape of the sewn collar was my guide-line: a soft curve. Here’s a free graphic for anyone wanting to cosplay as Naomi or a belter. I didn’t have time to order a rub-down tattoo paper for my printer, so I printed it on regular paper, placed double-sided tape to the rear and cut it out, then stuck it around my neck. The middle section I coloured in with a flesh hue marker, as it was getting too thin otherwise. [I had tried to cut out the black areas and use as a template to colour-in the tattoo with a sharpie, but it was too thin and fiddly.] I printed it A4 format and it came out right for my scrawny neck.

tattooazDownload

Protomoleculetype:

And here’s me at the Comic-Con! My hair-do doesn’t come close to Naomi’s, but it’s the best I could do, so bare with me. I didn’t have time to pimp my (mag)boots, but I hope the Rocinante cup makes up for it. The venue of the Comic-Con offered a fitting back-drop, nice and industrial.

No-one recognized me/Naomi at the Comic-Con (!!!) so either I really failed, or the Expanse is little known in Central Europe? Anyway I’m very pleased with this project. I might consider trying a Camina Drummer look next…

Tags: beratnas gas, cosplay, James holden, joanne hansen, naomi nagata, naomi nagata cosplay, sewing, the expanse, the expanse cosplay, the expanse flightsuit, ty&that guy