I’m used to sewing mainly Burda, Knipmode, Lekala, La Maison Victor, where a part from minor alterations the fit is usually ‘my size’ = 36(-38) / S(M) in RTW. Then I took the plunge across the pond and ordered some patterns from the Big 4. And apart from this marvellous unicorn Vogue 1239: they all turn out too large or really weird and ill-fitting. Actually even the Vogue is bit roomy, but it’s a coat 🙂
I’ve looked it up and according to Nancy Zieman you need to disregard the official size guide (!) and measure between your arm-pit creases and thus figure out your size. Which makes me an 8 rather than a 12. Quite a difference!
Also lsaspacey blogs about ‘deciphering the Big 4 ease charts’ (!!). So there’s hope and tricks, and probably lots of work, but is it worth it? Shall I take the risk of going down two sizes right away? Will I keep cutting out patterns in various sizes and making multiple muslins for so-called ‘fast&easy’ patterns? What is your experience? I’m loosing courage here, and am wondering whether I should abandon the following projects (and all the other lovely big 4 patterns I’ve bought, but not yet tried)? Advice very welcome…
Vogue 1506, wide trousers but seemingly fitted waist.
According to size chart, I’m a M (12-14), see result in pink. In blue: XS (4-6) (!!!) which is the smallest size they offer. Shall I try drafting smaller or is this doomed? Bizarrely my bras match the other jumpsuit… sorry about that.
McCall’s 7540 – close-fitting jumpsuit (dress).
Again according to size chart, I’m M (12-14). Meant to be a wearable muslin, I’ve only taken in the bodice, not yet the gaping back… nor the baggy pants, as I started hating the fine print of the fabric. If I try with another fabric, I would try 1 or 2 sizes smaller, but I fear there’s much work ahead, including changing the back to accommodate a bra, and an uncertain outcome… or?
Butterick 5785 – tunic. My current project.
Again according to size chart, I’m a 12, and it’s again too big, at the waist but also shoulders. Shall I go straight to size 8 as Nancy Zieman’s chart advises?
(I had also made McCalls’s 7539 version D with long arms, in advised size 12, as an overall for working in the garden (we have ticks). It was large enough to accommodate pants and pullover under, which was perfect in fresh weather. Yet the collar was very tight, and somehow, despite the large size, there was not a lot of room to move the arms. Sorry no pictures of it, it tore too badly at the arms, so I chucked it.)
Conclusion, V1239 a bit too big, M7539, B5785, M7540 too big, and V1506 enormously too big. Systematically going down two sizes would probably help, but it’s still a gamble, I find… or?